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Smooth and silky St. Supery
My affection for wine is rekindled each time I visit a working winery and observe not only the amazing process of transforming sweet grape juice into wine, but also the passion of the people who grow the grapes and make the finished product.
At St. Supery Estate Vineyards and Winery in the Napa Valley, that passion endures and is, indeed, infectious – due in large measure to the vision and enthusiasm of the winery’s founder.
Inspired by legendary wine maker Robert Mondavi, St. Supery owner Robert Skalli fell in love with the Napa Valley in the early 1970’s and searched for nearly a decade to find the perfect vineyard site to establish his own winery.
Skalli, whose wine roots go back three generations from Algeria to Corsica and then to France, found a remote ranch in the eastern mountains of Napa Valley in 1982. This 1500- acre property known as the Dollarhide Ranch became the primary vineyard site for St. Supery, now renowned as one of the shining stars of Napa Valley.
With nearly 500 acres of vineyards, the majority of the site is planted to sauvignon blanc and cabernet sauvignon with a substantial planting of chardonnay along with Bordeaux blending grapes such as merlot, malbec and cabernet franc. There is also 12-acres of Semillon, a grape which is a particular favorite of mine and of which St. Supery has no domestic peer in my humble opinion.
To round out the St. Supery estate, Skalli purchased a 35- acre vineyard along the Napa Valley floor. Known as the Rutherford Estate, the vineyards are predominately cabernet sauvignon and merlot with a sprinkling of petite verdot and cabernet franc. The Rutherford Estate also houses the winery, tasting room and visitor center.

Tasting from barrel at St. Supery I have always enjoyed the wines of St. Supery, especially their world –class sauvignon blanc, cabernet sauvignon and merlot. This Napa Valley winery produces a consistently exceptional portfolio of wines that are characterized by supple and silky smoothness.
I recently had the pleasure of visiting the winery and tasting my way through the estate’s portfolio of wines. I came away very impressed with St. Supery’s offerings. The good news for state residents is that most of the wines are available at local wine shops and restaurants. Here are my tasting notes for your perusal.
2011 Estate Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley ($20) – Crisp flavor of citrus is balanced by hints of honeydew melon in this stainless steel fermented wine. One of my favorite sauvignons in California. Excellent accompaniment to pan sautéed grouper with a touch of butter and lemon.
2011 Estate Virtu ($30) – This complex white blend of 60% semillon and 40% sauvignon blanc is round, rich and partially barrel fermented. It has lime and apricot flavors with just a touch toasty oak on the finish. Pair this with roasted chicken that has been rubbed with rosemary, garlic and olive oil.
2011 Dollarhide Estate Semillon ($30) There are very few wineries in the US producing semillon and none does it with more precision and elegance than St. Supery. With aromas of green apple and flint along with flavors of anise and citrus, the wine is supple yet balanced. I suggest trying this with capellini in a basil pesto sauce.
2009 Rutherford Merlot ($40) – This complex and layered offering has more in common with wine produced in Pomerol (Bordeaux) than it does with domestically made merlot. Blackberry fruit and mocha flavors along with tack room aromas give way to a silky smooth texture and make this a lovely mouthful of wine. Open up a bottle and sip it with braised beef short ribs.
2007 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon ($30) – Ripe cherry and blueberry flavors highlight this tasty cabernet that is balanced by just the right touch of acid. Fruit forward and medium -bodied, this wine should be paired with a grilled flank steak.
2008 Estate Estate Elu ($65) –This red Meritage is a blend of Rutherford and Dollarhide vineyards and is comprised of cabernet, merlot, cabernet franc and petit verdot. Complex aromas of mocha and leather lead to black cherry and cola flavors in this exceptionally balanced wine. Try this one with grilled rack of lamb that has been basted with Dijon mustard, lemon, garlic and rosemary.
2009 Dollarhide Estate Elevation ($65) – This blend of 88% cabernet with just about equal parts cabernet franc and malbec was aged in French oak for 22 months and exhibits a nice toasty note. Ripe dark fruit and coffee flavors are supple yet lend structure to a wine that will age gracefully for years to come. Marinated and charcoal grilled leg of lamb would be an excellent accompaniment to this wine.

Lunch in the Vineyard 2007 Dollarhide Estate Cabernet Sauvignon ($85) – From an exceptional vintage, this 100% cabernet is aged for 33 months in French oak. While smooth and full of ripe currant and berry flavors, the wine is age worthy and should continue to improve for a decade or two. This special wine should be accompanied by a standing rib roast that has been rubbed with peppercorns, garlic and sea salt.
Ask your local wine purveyor to order any of the above mentioned wines not on the shelf or check out the St. Supery website at: www.stsupery.com and have them shipped to you.
Disclaimer: My brother is a wine broker in North Carolina and he represents St. Supery on the East Coast.
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Good for any occasion: a sparkling idea
While rooting around for something to pair with the spicy baby back ribs we were going to enjoy for Sunday dinner, I grabbed a bottle of sparkling wine. And not just any sparkler, but a bottle of Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Champagne.
But doesn’t true Champagne deserve to be paired with foie gras or caviar – or at least be used to celebrate a special occasion such as a birthday, anniversary or holiday? Well, in my estimation, every day spent above ground is a reason to celebrate.
And, hey, don’t you think that that if they could, the baby backs would be thrilled to be consumed with something other than beer? Anyway, my surprised meal mates were certainly happy and I was too.
There is no question that sparkling wines are underused. We seem to forget how good they are with everyday meals, especially those that are spicy, rich or salty. And you really do have a wide variety of reasonably priced domestic and international wines from which to choose such as Cava from Spain, Prosecco from Italy and Champagne-like wines from just about every wine-producing country including the US.
You may have heard the mythical story of the monk Dom Perignon who is credited with inventing Champagne. If not, here is how that story goes.
As a Benedictine monk and winemaker living in the Champagne region of France in the late 1600’s, Dom Perignon noticed that many of his wines would re-ferment in the bottle when the weather began to warm in the spring.
Instead of allowing this second fermentation to be completed, Dom Perignon came up with the idea of corking the wine and capturing the resultant effervescence. After years of experimentation, which included developing the blend of wines comprising the final product, he is credited with creating Champagne.
The process supposedly developed by Dom Perignon and still used today is called methode champenoise or the Champagne method. Every truly great sparkling wine employs this costly and labor intensive process.
The three grapes making up the traditional Champagne cuvee (blend) are pinot noir, pinot meunier (both reds) and chardonnay. These grapes are used to make three separate wines, which are then blended by the winemaker into his final cuvee.

Nicolas Feuillatte – great with baby backs! Once blended, yeast and sugar are added to each bottle which is then secured with a crown cap. The wine is allowed to ferment a second time in the bottle and, depending upon the quality of the cuvee, it is usually aged from two to four years.
Before the sediment arising from the second fermentation can be disgorged from the wine and a final cork secured, each bottle is turned, shaken slightly (this is called riddling) and put in a successively more vertical position for several weeks.
Once the solids are in an upside down position and in the top of the bottle, dry ice is used to freeze the sediment in the neck, the crown cork is popped and the solids are disgorged. A small amount of sugar, wine and brandy are then added back to the bottle ( this is called the “dosage”) and the Champagne cork is secured.
Other, less expensive ways of making sparkling wine have been developed, but none can compare with the complexity and quality of the traditional Champagne method.
Champagne is priced from the mid twenties to upwards of hundreds of dollars a bottle while sparklers from other places can be acquired from around $10 to $30 a bottle.
Here a few of my favorite Champagnes priced under $50: Nicolas Feuillatte; Mumm Cordon Rouge Brut; Moet & Chandon White Star; Veuve Cliquot (Yelow Label; and Perrier Jouet Grand Brut.
Sparkling wines (those made outside France, but using the Champagne method) priced under $30: Gloria Ferrer Brut; Schramsburg Brut; Domaine Carneros; Mumm Cuvee Napa; Domaine Chandon Reserve; Piper Sonoma Brut; Ste. Michelle Brut; Freixenet Cordon Negro; Dibon Cava.
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Grilled Nirvana: release your inner-ogre
I am flawed human being. I know this because I am married to a brutally candid woman who reminds me daily of my myriad imperfections.
Hey, I’m not complaining. If she were not critical of some of my more my aberrant idiosyncrasies, I would probably be living in a cave, wearing an animal skin and reduced to yodeling – u-da-lay-ee-o!
However, the older I get, the more I have come to the conclusion that some of these imperfections are acceptable. No, let me rephrase that: they are essential!
I’m not endorsing really obnoxious behavior like flatulence, profanity or – heaven forbid –rooting for Pitt. And while I may have (once or twice) lapsed with regard to the first two infractions mentioned above, you may be assured that I would rather go streaking through St. Peter’s Square than root for Pitt.
No, the oft-criticized behavior I am endorsing involves eating red meat on a regular basis. I know it’s not politically correct to admit this, but I am addicted to red meat, particularly steak. I must consume the roasted flesh of a steer or cow at least once a week or I turn into my alter ego – the ogre just waiting to emerge.
Okay, so maybe I’ve engaged in a little hyperbole here, but I do really love a good steak, preferably one grilled over blazing charcoal. So while too much of a good thing like beef can be a health risk, I mitigate that problem by flushing my arteries regularly with a steady stream of red wine.
Today, I’m going to share my mouth-watering recipe for grilled steak nirvana and provide you with a few nice red wine recommendations that will please your palate and transform the meal into an other worldly experience. I prefer to use rib eye, but strip or porterhouse steak work just as well.
Grilled Nirvana
1 one and one- half inch thick bone-in rib eye
1 tablespoon of Kosher or sea salt
1 tablespoon of fresh coarsely ground black pepper
1 small clove of garlic finely minced
1 teaspoon of olive oil
Grilled Nirvana Cover steak all over with the olive oil
Rub the steak with salt, pepper and garlic
Allow to sit at room temperature for at least 30 minutes
Prepare a hot charcoal fire or turn one side of a gas grill up to the highest setting
Place steak on grill, close lid and cook for two minutes a side
Move steak off direct coals (or direct heat on grill)
Cook indirectly for 8 minutes for medium rare
Remove from grill and allow to sit for 10 minutes and then serveAny full-bodied red wine will go well with the steak, but I prefer cabernet sauvignon or a Bordeaux blend (cabernet, merlot, cabernet franc, etc.). Here are some of my favorite labels priced between $15 and $30 a bottle: Franciscan, Sebastiani, Alamos, Alexander Valley Vineyards, St. Supery, B-Side, Robert Mondavi, BV Rutherford, William Hill, Clos Du Val and Newton Claret.
So go ahead and give it up for a little grilled nirvana and release your inner-ogre.
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Your choice: Saturday night special or everyday sipper
I oftentimes refer to bottles of that elixir we all love as either Saturday night specials or everyday sippers. Saturday night specials can also morph into holiday or celebratory wines when the occasion dictates. So, doing the math, you will have significantly more opportunities to experience the everyday sippers.
I know. I am the master of the obvious, but that’s why I spend so many words telling you about wines that are both excellent and usually priced under $20 a bottle. I’m just explaining (rationalizing?) my predilection to concentrate most of my tasting research and recommendations on less expensive wine.
Okay, I’m a cheapskate too.
That’s why – of the wines reviewed below – all but one are everyday sippers. Also, I am a firm believer that there is a whole lot of buried treasure at the bottom of the sea of wine we are all adrift in – and I was put on this planet to find it for you.
So, I hope you will try a bottle of two of the vinous booty below – even it’s the Saturday night special.
2010 Bridlewood Pinot Noir ($15) –Bright black cherry and spicy flavors highlight this smooth, supple pinot noir from Monterey County. The medium-bodied texture is balanced out with a touch of vanilla and ample acidity. Try this one with grilled chicken spiced with black pepper, garlic and kosher salt.
2008 Sebastiani Cherryblock ($80) – This is definitely a special occasion or celebration wine. Earthy aromas with a hint of cigar box lead to a silky smooth Bordeaux-like wine with complex flavors of cola, plums and dark fruits. It is an elegant wine that will continue to develop for a decade or more. Try it now with filet mignon in a mushroom demi-glace sauce.

A great Saturday night special 2011 Conde Villar Vinho Verde Rose ($10) – Strawberries and raspberries co-mingle to produce a refreshing and slightly spritzy rose which is just the right wine to open on the patio. Just a touch of sweetness is balanced out nicely by citrus-like acidity. You might also pair this with brunch type food.
2009 Treana White ($18) A great alternative to rich and full-bodied chardonnay, this blend of 50 percent each Viognier and Marsanne has a creamy, toasty and floral component. From the Central California coast, Treana would be an excellent accompaniment to broiled lobster with drawn butter.
Bugey Cerdon Sparkling Gamay ($16) –From the foothills of the Alps in the Jura Mountains of eastern France, this sparkling rose is comprised of 80% Gamay and 15% Poulsard -which is an indigenous regional grape.
There is just a touch of chardonnay added to provide some body to the strawberry and cherry flavors. Sip it as an aperitif before dinner or with chocolate based desserts. This is a very pretty and tasty wine.
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A WV wine worth the search
I am a locavore. I love to eat locally grown produce and meat that has been raised on nearby farms. I also love wines produced in our state and I am constantly on the prowl for good Mountain State sippers. And there are a number of them being produced among the 20 state wineries scattered throughout these here hills.
So why don’t we see more of the European varietals – like cabernet, chardonnay and pinot noir – being grown in the state? There are practical reasons which are explained below, but one state wine maker is proving that it can be done.
Vitis Vinifera is the official classification of grapes native to Europe and the Middle East and it produces the world’s greatest wines. In addition to the famous vinifera grapes such as the ones mentioned above, there are literally thousands of other varietals in the classification.
There are two other classifications of wine grapes produced in the US. They are: vitas labrusca, a native American vine producing grapes such as concord and Catawba; and French-American hybrids such as seyval blanc, vidal blanc and chambourcin.
Labrusca can make decent, but distinctly flavored wines while French-American hybrids (which are French vines grafted onto American rootstock) can produce wines closer in quality to Vinifera.
So, in the quality hierarchy, vinifera grapes produce the best wines followed by French-American hybrids and then labrusca varietals. Why, then, don’t more West Virginia wine makers produce vinifera grapes if these make superior wines?
Well, the fact is that labrusca and French-American hybrids are considerably more hardy and prolific than vinifera. They are also less susceptible than vinifera to mold, diseases and the sometimes harsh realities of West Virginia weather. That’s why you see wineries in the state growing mostly labrusca and French-American Hybrids.
While there is no question that vinifera is extremely difficult to grow in West Virginia, it is not impossible to do so and one winery in particular has been successful at it for years.

Potomac Highland Winery A few weeks back, I wrote about several eating establishments and purveyors of fine wine in the Canaan Valley and Potomac Highlands of West Virginia. Domiciled in that same region of the state is the only West Virginia winery growing and making a significant amount of its production from vinifera.
Charles Whitehill is the owner and wine maker at Potomac Highland Winery in Keyser and has proven that it is possible to produce good wine from vinifera. His cabernet, pinot noir, riesling and chardonnay vines, planted on his Fried Meat Ridge Vineyard, somehow survive the harsh winters and hot summers of the eastern West Virginia mountains. And the results, as far as I am concerned, are well worth the effort. Here are some worth searching for.
2009 Potomac Highland Meritage ($14) This medium bodied blend of 68% cabernet sauvignon, 17% cabernet franc and 15% merlot is full of sweet black cherry flavors with just a touch of vanilla from the light oak aging. Try it with marinated and grilled sirloin.
2011 Potomac Highland Riesling ($12) Slightly sweet green apple flavors highlight this refreshing, exceptionally balanced wine. Great as a porch sipper or as an accompaniment to brunch foods like omelets and quiche.
2011 Potomac Highland Chardonnay ($12) – This wine has a creamy mouth feel with hints of ripe pear, anise and nutmeg spice. Lightly oaked, it finishes dry and would be excellent to pair with smoked WV trout.
You can look for Potomac Highland wines around the state or call (304-788-3066) for shipment. You can also visit their website at www.potomac-highland-winery.com.
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Exercising your palate: a cure for the wine blahs
My not so wine-stained palate got a much-needed workout recently after a few weeks of less than vigorous exercise. I guess I’ve been in a wine funk, but a sip of delicious purple elixir has renewed my passion for all things made from spoiled grapes – which is, after all, the essence of fermentation.
Anyway, I am reinvigorated and that’s because of not only a specific wine, but because of a region of the wine world that has had an incredible run of excellent vintages over the past 14 years. I speak of the Rhone and particularly the southern most appellations in Provence upon which Bacchus has smiled for such a long time.
There has been an incredible string of good to superlative vintages in the Rhone region from 1998 through 2011. With the exception of 2002, when many vineyards were inundated by torrential rain and flooding, every vintage that has been released since 1998 has been highly rated.
Provence, of course, is home to Chateauneuf Du Pape, the most famous and expensive wine of this southern Rhone region. However, there are several other sub-appellations in the area such as Gigondas, Vacqueyras, Cotes du Luberon and Tavel that are producing exceptional value-priced wines.
While there are some excellent white wines made in Provence, principally from marsanne, rousanne and viognier, the emphasis here is on red produced mainly from grenache, syrah and mourvedre. The aforementioned wine that re-invigorated my palate is a Cotes Du Rhone which is a red blend produced from grapes that can be sourced from anywhere in the Rhone appellation.
Cotes Du Rhone is usually priced from $10 to $20 a bottle and is especially good with barbecued hamburgers, ribs or casseroles and is generally a medium-bodied wine with appealing peppery, ripe fruit flavors

09 Kermirt Lynch Cotes Du Rhone The 2009 Kermit Lynch Cotes Du Rhone ($13) is the most recent (in a long string of wines) to take my breath away and leave my tongue purple. This particular wine has aromas of leather and black pepper and flavors of black cherries and cola.
I grilled a skirt steak that had been rubbed with ancho chili powder, cumin, brown sugar, cayenne and black pepper to act as an accompaniment to the wine and the combination was spot on.
There are a number of exceptional importers that you should look for in seeking out your own version of Provencal wine nirvana. Among the best are: Kermit Lynch, Kysela, Guigal, Beaucastel, Chapoutier, Olivier Cuilleras, Paul Autard and Rayas.
For those of you who love dessert wines, you will find one of the best in Provence. Look for a Muscat Beaumes de Venise. Produced in the village of the same name from Muscat grapes, this sweet elixir is full of apricot aromas and rich, round melon flavors and it is great with chocolate!