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Under the South Side Bridge: Bringing closure to wine

Blogger John Brown has fond memories of imbibing screw-cap wines beneath the South Side Bridge. Photo by Walker DeVille for the DowntownWV blogSome of you seem shocked many wineries are now using screw cap closures instead of the more traditional cork to finish their wines. With all due respect to tradition and the desirability of using corks to seal the deal in our wine bottles, there is both a serious shortage of corks and a major problem with defective corks. I’ll go into this a little later, but first I should let you know that I have conducted serious research on the subject with a group of very discerning wine drinkers.
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D.C. eating and drinking: A Capitol experience
As a former Congressional employee, I get nostalgic when I reflect on the District of Columbia, particularly as it relates to my two favorite passions: great restaurants and exceptional wines. Back in those post-Watergate days, my income was insufficient to support the sybaritic yearnings I harbored; therefore I was not a frequent patron at the finer eating and drinking establishments in our nation’s capitol.
However, I experienced just enough of the city’s culinary virtuosity to know that it was a special place. Ditto, the beverage shops which were (and still are) permitted to directly import wines from all around the world, thus eliminating a step or two in the chain of commerce — and consequently providing consumers with great variety and value.
Thankfully, over the past few decades, access to quality food and wine have only gotten better in and around the environs of Washington, DC.
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Matching Wine and Food: From Aardvark To Zinfandel

Try blue cheese with Port and Zinfandel.
You may have noticed that I rarely write about wine without mentioning what I consider a complementing dish. In my humble estimation, drinking a glass of wine without food is like listening to a concert while wearing ear muffs. This is particularly true for red wine where the not-so-subtle flavors and harsh tannins can assault the palate and literally leave a bad taste in your mouth. But add a matching dish and the wine, like the music, reaches its full sensory potential.This is usually a good thing — however, it can just as easily be a disaster if you pick a clashing food-and-wine combination. Today, I’m going to suggest some favorite wine and food pairings and, conversely, a few to avoid. Like all subjective endeavors, these recommendations are tainted by my own quirky tastes for which I make no apologies. How’s that for a disclaimer? While I have on occasion experimented with some rather exotic pairings (i.e., Gruner Veltliner with curried aardvark, Brunello Di Montalcino with deviled wolf pancreas, etc. ), I will confine my suggestions to more conventional, if prosaic, food and wine matches.
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PINOT NOIR: Oregon’s Domaine Serene is where it’s at
So there I was at Paolo’s in Georgetown, chillin’ at the bar with a glass of Chianti Classico after a long day of doing my bureaucratic thing for the state. It was the early 1990s, Bill Clinton was about to be inaugurated and Washington was pretty electric.As I sat at the bar, I overheard a conversation between the restaurant manager and a wine salesperson who happened to be sitting next to me. This attractive young woman was pitching the manager on a new Pinot Noir from Oregon. Back in those days, Oregon had not yet established its reputation as America’s premier Pinot Noir producing state so the salesperson was working the manager pretty hard. It was obvious to me that this discussion needed an impartial opinion (and I was anxious to get a freebie) so I immediately volunteered to provide one. After a quick recitation of my qualifications (“I’m from West Virginia and I drink wine and, oh, by the way, look at my new shoes…”), the two were duly impressed and agreed to allow me to evaluate the Pinot Noir.
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Wild and Wonderful Culinary Tales

The 18th hole at Stonewall Resort in Roanoke, W.Va. Stonewall photoYour traveling wino has been crisscrossing West-By-Golly, sampling the food and wine wares of some fine establishments. I can happily report that the state of sipping and supping is improving in these here hills. Today, I’m going to regale you with my experiences in two diverse culinary venues: a fine restaurant in Davis, W.Va., and Stonewall Resort in Roanoke, W.Va.
Starting in the wilds of Tucker County, my first stop was Davis. This is a town where the early 20th century architecture houses some very interesting nooks and crannies, including an establishment known as Mutley’s. What, you ask, is Mutley’s? A fine dining restaurant, of course. Mutley’s owner, Becky Bunner, along with Chef Randy Columbo are a great team of creative and slightly off-beat hosts who work hard to make sure you not only eat well, but also have fun.
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ZINFUL MUSINGS: Trying to earn a little respect for Zinfandel

Among the many full-bodied red wines that can nicely enhance foods such as beef stew, gumbo, chili, roasted meats and pastas, my favorite is Zinfandel. I’m talking seriously purple Zin — not the pink stuff that makes Aunt Lavinia feel like she’s a clever conversationalist. This is wine that will leave an indelible stain on your table cloth, and a lasting impression on your palate.Sadly, Zinfandel is the Rodney Dangerfield of red wines. Why? Everyone enjoys it, but very few people want to take it home to dinner! In addition to getting no respect, the truth is Zinfandel has an identity problem. In fact, it has multiple identities. (Are you listening, Dr. Freud?)
