Vines & Vittles

with John Brown

Whine-ing about beer

winebeer.jpg

A reader asked me where he could find the wines I had suggested in the June 24 Gazette-Mail “Main Ingredient” piece. Good question. The majority of wines I recommend for your sipping pleasure can be found either in local wine shops or grocery store wine areas. When I’m reasonably sure the wines are not available in the area, I will let you know that fact. In that case, you have a couple of choices to get the particular wine.

First, you can ask your local wine merchant to order the wine for you. State wine distributors (wholesalers who sell the wine to your retail outlet) have access to thousands of labels and can probably get the wine to your wine shop. If you don’t want to wait the weeks (or possibly months) it will usually take to get the wine, you have the option of ordering it – via phone or Internet – from a wine shop or winery out of state.

Yes, West Virginia is one of the more progressive states when it comes to wine laws. Thanks to some wine-bibbing legislators several years back who passed a good consumer-oriented law, you are legally permitted to order up to two cases of wine per month from out of state retailers or wineries. Simply “Google” the wine in question and voila! (that’s pronounced ‘Vi-ole- lah!’ where I come from), a dad-gum passel of opportunities to purchase the stuff will be presented to you.

In defense of a beverage which truly needs no defense ( when it comes to tastefully matching just about every known edible food), I feel compelled to respond to my good friend and fellow blogger, Rich Ireland, who has once again made less than flattering (dare I say disparaging?) statements regarding the fruit of the vine.

I’ve let the snide comments slide in the past, but no more. See if you agree that I must defend the honor of Bacchus after what Rich had to say in a recent “Beers To You” blog regarding people who don’t seem to like beer – and don’t want to give “craft” beer a try:

“Maybe the person who fits the profile of this article doesn’t fit the macro brewery profile. Maybe they really want beer with flavor? Maybe something better than Bud? Beer offers a much broader range of flavor than the default epicurean favorite, wine. Yes, I throw down the gauntlet, I said it! Beer is better than wine at delivering varying intensities of flavor; ranging from sweet to bitter, roasted and toasted to fruity and fizzy. You just have to find the right beer for you…”

Dude, what have you been smoking?? It’s easy to understand Rich’s frustration, though, regarding beer’s less than universal acceptance. But don’t beat up on wine because it seems to enjoy a broader appeal than that foamy stuff. That’s like expressing frustration over the fact that chess is more intellectually challenging than checkers – even though both of them are board games, require two players and are fun to play.

Beer is good. I like it and drink it on occasion. I particularly enjoy beer with pronounced flavors, such as craft beer, and I cannot abide “near beer” (generally referred to as light beer). I also think beer can be a good accompaniment to food. The problem is the lack of available supplies of the stuff. There simply is not enough variety of quality beer available in this marketplace. There is also a limited number of beer critics, like Rich, who actually taste different types of beer with complimenting food.

As far as suggesting that beer is better than wine at delivering intensity of flavor, I would have to disagree simply on the basis of the sheer number of grape varieties in the world, the diversity of flavors which the resulting wines produce and my own not insignificant experience with both products.

No question, wine is enjoying unprecedented popularity now in the US. However, it has taken three decades to get us to this point and we still drink only a fraction of what other civilized nations consume. What it gets down to is building a broader market for beer, and that takes time, marketing, persistence and an industry willing to invest in growth.

I’m confident, Rich and beer lovers like him will get it done. But in the meantime, they’re not going to recruit many open-minded people to their cause (particularly wine drinkers) by constantly complaining about wine’s popularity and its success as an accompaniment to food.

My advice? Chill out with a nice glass of “intense” Zin.


Comments

11 responses to “Whine-ing about beer”

  1. Rich Ireland Avatar
    Rich Ireland

    I fully expect that you would take up the pen in defense of your beloved beverage…

    I too must continue with my crusade to place beer back-up on its pedestal of respect. I am not mad at the wine lovers out there, I like and even love certain wines. (A few of your recommendations, I might add)

    I have to come back strong against the advertisment and media driven belief that beer is for frat parties and wine is what’s for dinner.

    Wine is easy. A no brainer. It’s safe to like wine. No one will talk about you if you get a little tipsy at the company party; if you get that way with a good bottle of wine.

    Beer is emerging in America. It takes some thought, just as with good wine. There are simply so many styles and flavors (albeit, not in West Virginia). Just think of the gradient flavor difference between American wheat beer to Rogues Shakespeare Stout for example. My flavor claim is also a matter of mathematics; beer contains at a minimum, 4 ingredients that affect flavor. That does not even take into consideration the wide alcohol range, carbonation, roasted malts, other grains, fruits, and the hundreds of hop varities available.

    As for food pairing… Wine is not untouchable.

    Decanter magazine – the prestigious British wine publication – has a great lead on its version of the story, beginning “to some, it will be like saying Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers were out of step. But new research has revealed that cheese and wine do not make the perfect pair.”

    The article goes on to say…

    “What amuses me is that people need scientists to tell them this,” said Decanter contributing editor and leading food and wine writer, Fiona Beckett. “Anyone who actually enjoys their wine will know that cheese will ruin their favorite wine.”

    Craft-Beer goes to 11!

    Look forward to hoisting a pint with you soon!

  2. Rich: I agree with most of your response to “Whine-ing about Beer”, but I must take issue with a couple of your points. First, while wine has come a long way up the acceptance ladder, there are still plenty of folks out there who consider it an elitist drink or who feel the sippers are nothing more than reprobates. Secondly, I feel that opinions- whether they’re yours, mine or Fiona Beckett’s – are subjective and reflect both our beliefs and fallabilities. I mention this because I ain’t buying that bit from Fiona about cheese ruining wine. Cheese is good – wine is good – cheese matched with wine (or a good beer) is even better. That’s just my opinion though and I’m nothing if not fallible.

  3. Rich Ireland Avatar
    Rich Ireland

    Cheers! John… Good points.

  4. Maicomike Avatar
    Maicomike

    (For the record, I’m also posting this on Beers To You)

    Good points by both parties on this issue. The Gazz needs a lively debate, and who knows, maybe this will get one started.

    If I may, allow me to make a suggestion: When the two of you get together to hoist that pint, rather than each continuing in your attempt to dissuade the other, you could get your heads together, get on the same page, and toss around some (hopefully) fresh ideas to go about bringing West Virginia’s beer laws up to snuff with it’s wine laws. We can all benefit here, so lets (everyone!)get to work.

    Rich–I read your comments a while back about one legislator agreeing that our state’s beer laws are antiquated, but not wanting his name associated with any bill to update them. I understand that this is the heart of the Bible Belt, but if other southern states can, and have, updated their laws, we should be able to get similar laws passed in our own beloved state.

    I’m not sure what can be done, other than a flood of letters to our state legislators, but it has to start somewhere. West Virginia has a
    lot beer drinkers. Anyone who doubts this can verify it by simply spending a little time observing shoppers in most any grocery or convenience store.

    I realize I’m preaching to the choir, but it seems to me that the problem lies with the brands of beer most of them are buying. Sure, craft beers cost more than the brews from the big boys. However, as with most things, one gets what one pays for.

    I’m not sure how often postings from TheGazz are actually printed by Charleston Newspapers, but I’v only seen a few, and I have no idea how many folks actually read these blogs. It’s possible that a few more articles in print would not only help to educate the masses, but also bring this issue to the those who drink “fizzy, tasteless, yellow beer” and spur more of them into action writing letters.

    I know it’s easy to use the internet to find email and snail mail addresses of legislators, etc. and I’m sure there are quite a few folks out there who probably have great intentions, but are a little on the laid-back side when it comes to getting around to doing these things, much less actually writing those letters. How about posting a list of legislators names and email addresses (with one asterisk beside those known to be secretly on our side, and two for those known to be on the fence) to take some of the work out of getting those letters written.

    In the meantime, if there is anything I, or anyone else, can do as an individual, put the word out and let’s see what happens. Thanks, and keep those great articles coming!

  5. Interesting response to Rich’s blog. To begin, I do love wine – it was my first love as an adult beverage and I have a much longer history with wine than I do beer. That said, I am clearly a beer guy.

    You say:
    “As far as suggesting that beer is better than wine at delivering intensity of flavor, I would have to disagree simply on the basis of the sheer number of grape varieties in the world, the diversity of flavors which the resulting wines produce and my own not insignificant experience with both products.”

    Do you know about beer at all? The sheer number of grape varieties is insignificant when contrasted to variety of malted barleys (lightly roasted to nearly burnt, under modified to highly modified, 2 row or 6 row), hops (noble, american, peppery, aged, citrusy, floral, piney – and thats just descriptors for the multitude of hop varieties of the world), yeast (high/low floculating, high/low attenuatiing, brettanomyaces [oh yeah, bad for wine, great for beer], lacto-b, wild yeast, and the blending of them) and other beer ingredients (wood, orange peel, corriander, oats, honey, sugar, etc) that go into what the world knows as “Beer”. If you’re truly unexperienced in all that is beer, take a few months to discover what we have come to love – everything from Berliner Weisse (like lemonade) to barrel aged barley wines at 14% abv, aged for 4 or 5 years.

    Now, wine and beer are great and to say one is better than the other is nonsense. I just mean to point out that the idea of wine’s superiority based on volume of variety shows a total lack of understanding of beer.

    Next time you’re in wine country (napa/sonoma) please do a service to the palate and stop in at Russian River Brewing in Santa Rosa, order from the right side of the beer menu. I think you’ll be a bit shocked at his 2 year pinot barrel beers.

  6. Maicomike: Good input to the discussion. Access to the legislative website at http://www.legis.state.wv.us/ will give you all legislators’ contact information. I would be happy provide a few ideas about how you might go about navigating the political minefields. However, things are not all rosy when it comes to the state of wine in our state. Each legislative session, there are bills to repeal the more progressive provisions of our wine law vis-a-vis interstate shipping. Anyway, I’m always happy to share a pint – or good bottle of Mad Dog – with my buddy Rich and discuss these important issues.

  7. Rick: First of all, I don’t have enough time or liver function to get as involved with beer as I am with wine. But I do enjoy the discussion. So, is comparing hops to grapes like comparing apples to oranges? I don’t know, but my point to Rich regarding the degree of flavor intesity in beer vs. wine is simply that there are thousands of grape varieties worldwide – when you consider the individual clones – and the flavor profiles of the resulting wines are all across the tasting spectrum. I am not a chemist, nor would I want to be, however, I am a home wine maker and I have tasted an incredible (my wife would say disgusting) number of wines in my day and can say that there literally is a wine for every food. Is there a beer for every food? I don’t know, that’s your job to find out (by the way it’s enjoyable research, isn’t it ?).

  8. Maicomike Avatar
    Maicomike

    Thanks for the link and the info. I’ll be sure to check it out ASAP, and urge all beer-drinkers out there to do the same.

    As for your comments to Rick’s and my responses, there very well may be a wine for every food, but does anything go with Mad Dog? Is it even considered “wine”? Drain opener, maybe…

    The last line, though, pretty well sums up this whole discussion–it is very enjoyable research.

    Again, thanks.

  9. I’ll give you wine for every food if you’ll give me a beer for every food as well. There are clearly dishes I go with wine over beer (roasted lamb, for instance), but many that wine won’t suffice (like sushi). I’m probably a lot like you – make my own and have sampled an atrocious number of beers of all styles. Again, there’s room at the world’s table for great beer and great wine – I don’t really see a competition.

  10. rood cervical Zymugist Avatar
    rood cervical Zymugist

    I just thought I’d chime in!

    “Beer is made by man, wine by God.”
    Martin Luther
    Both beer & wine both have wonderful taste profiles & fills our hearts with joy!
    “God has given us wine and beer to gladden the hearts of men” (Ps 104:14-15)
    Let us join together to fight the poor misguided Billy Sunday wannabes of our state. with GHB, Ecstacy, Ketomine & other far more dangerous substances out there. These poor souls are worried about a person sipping a glass of beer or wine.
    Also, our antiquated beer laws.

  11. Rood Cervical Zymugist Avatar
    Rood Cervical Zymugist

    Almost forgot,.. Meth is also horrible mess for everyone & everything. The labs producing toxins that get into the environment & the drug destroys families, friendships & lives. & I reiterate: They are worried about beer & wine. 🙁
    (orig. in Beer blog.)

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