Vines & Vittles

with John Brown

  • Some tasteful holiday gift ideas

    We’re all struggling right now to find just the right wine for the lucky folks on our holiday gift short list. To make things a little easier for you, I’ve spent a whole lot of time and exhausted a plethora of brain cells just to come up with some really tasty suggestions for your consideration.

    All the wines I’m recommending are under $35 a bottle (most are under $20) and are available throughout the state at your favorite wine shops and grocery stores. So go out and have a little fun. You might even buy a bottle or two for your own pleasure.

    2009 Estancia Chardonnay Pinnacle Ranches -The cool Monterey climate accompanied by a long growing season produced a ripe, mouth-filling chardonnay. Highlighted by a soft, creamy texture, this wine was partially barrel fermented and aged a while in oak. Roasted cod or sea bass that is simply sauced would benefit greatly from an accompaniment of this lovely wine.

    2007 Allegrini Palazzo Della Torre – One of my all-time favorite reds, this blend of corvina and rondinella is a smooth, yet full-bodied wine made using the ripasso method where a portion of the grapes is allowed to dry for a few months before fermenting. The resulting wine is rich and robust with great black cherry fruit and cola flavors. This one begs to be paired with Osso Bucco or beef carbonade.

    Rotari Rose- This non-vintage sparkler from Trento in northern Italy is a blend of 25% chardonnay 75% pinot noir. It was number 13 on Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s 2010 Top 100 Best Buys of the Year. Produced in the champagne method, Rotari can be sipped as an aperitif or matched with appetizers like cheese, olives or fruit.

    2009 Davis Bynum Pinot Noir – From the Russian River region of Sonoma County this pinot noir is medium-bodied, silky smooth and well balanced which makes it an exceptional match to dishes like grilled salmon or chicken breast stuffed with cheese and mushrooms.

    2009 Benzinger Chardonnay –This wine is produced from grapes grown on the Sangiacomo vineyard in Carneros which is where I source the grapes for the chardonnay I make right here at Chez Brown. I must admit that – while my wine is pretty good – it’s not quite up to the standard of Benzinger which is creamy, rich and well-balanced. Try this chardonnay with lobster or Alaskan king crab in drawn butter. Ah decadence!

    2008 Newton Claret – This Bordeaux blend from Napa, comprised of 53% merlot, 33% cabernet sauvignon, 8% malbec, 5% cabernet franc and 1% petit verdot, is an amazing value for just a little more than $20. Flavors of mocha and coffee are subtle, but rich and there is very good balancing acidity. Match this wine with a rib roast rubbed with garlic, rosemary, black pepper and kosher salt.

    2010 Robert Mondavi Riesling – A simple, refreshing wine with peach and ripe apple flavors, this riesling is slightly sweet with excellent acidity that would make it a good match to brunch dishes like quiche or to assorted fruit. Or just use it as an aperitif.

    2007 Luigi Righetti Amarone – This medium-bodied Amarone (which is produced from dried Valpolicella grapes) still exhibits plum and other dark fruit flavors one expects from Amarone. The good news, though, is you can enjoy it now instead of having to wait for a decade or more for the wine to come around. This Amarone would be spectacular with marinated and grilled leg of lamb.

  • Wines for Thanksgiving

    Domaine Serene Pinot Noir – Great for Turkey Day !

    I hope you’ve been training hard because we are about to embark upon a food and wine marathon that begins with Thanksgiving, shifts into high gear for holiday parties, and roars into overdrive for Christmas and New Years’ celebrations.

    We will consume more food and drink more wine during this period than at any other time during the year and, as a result, we will boost the first quarter revenues of exercise clubs, diet centers and clothing alteration shops throughout this great land.

    Between Thanksgiving and Christmas, you will also make more than 50 percent of your total wine purchases for the year. Therefore, today I’ll give you a few wine suggestions to accompany the first big holiday.

    Thanksgiving is just around the corner and turkey will once again be the centerpiece of this culinary celebration. In the past, I have written about the versatility of turkey to be successfully matched with red or white as well as light or full-bodied wines. The reason this is possible is because turkey has a variety of flavors, colors and textures which can match just about any wine.

    Add to these dimensions, the manner in which the turkey is prepared (i.e., roasted, smoked, grilled or fried) and the type of stuffing used, and you have a complex set of flavor components that make matching wine with it fun. Indeed, Thanksgiving offers us a rare opportunity to sample several wines with the same meal (and that’s something to thankful for).

    Conventional wine wisdom dictates that white meat should be accompanied with white wine. Well, in the case of Thanksgiving turkey, that is only partially true.

    From an herbal sauvignon blanc (which pairs nicely with a sage-flavored bread dressing), to a medium-bodied, yet rich, Alsatian riesling, to a lighter-styled pinot grigio, to a creamy, full-bodied chardonnay, turkey can accommodate each of these white wines quite nicely.

    But what really surprises some wine purists is how well turkey matches with red wine, particularly when the bird has been roasted on a grill or smoked. Full bodied reds like cabernet sauvignon, Rhone wines such as Chateauneuf Du Pape, along with zinfandel, shiraz or Amarone go especially well with smoked or grilled turkey.

    The traditional oven-roasted turkey is also very nicely accompanied by a pinot noir, Beaujolais or even tempranillo from Spain. And, given the celebratory nature of Thanksgiving, sparkling wine and Champagne would be an appropriate match too.

    And what about a dessert wine with that pumpkin pie? Well, I’ve got a few goodies for your sweet tooth that will pair especially well with this traditional dessert.

    In the interest of impartiality, I will take on the formidable task of working my way through a plethora of both white, red and sparkling wines this Thanksgiving. I will then repair to the couch where, full of tryptophan and the fruit of the vine, I will snooze my way through a bevy of football games. Ah, the good life.

    So here are some vinous ideas for you to consider as you plan your Thanksgiving dinner.

    For the holiday aperitif: Domaine Chandon Blanc de Noirs, Domaine Carneros Brut, Iron Horse Russian Cuvee, or Zardetto Prosecco would tickle and tingle your palate and get you primed for the meal to come.

    White wines: St. Supery Sauvignon Blanc, Trimbach Riesling, Merryville Chardonnay, Louis Jadot Chablis, Banfi Centine Bianco, Pierre Sparr Gewurztraminer, Talley Vineyards Chardonnay and Tolloy Pinot Grigio.

    Red wines: Franciscan Cabernet Sauvignon; Luigi Righetti Amarone, Martin Codax Tempranillo, Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Ridge Lytton Springs Zinfandel, Davis Bynum Russian River Sonoma County Pinot Noir; Domaine Serene Evanstad Reserve Pinot Noir,and Georges Duboeuf Morgon Beaujolais.

    Desert wines: Michele Chiarlo Moscato, Navarro Late Harvest Riesling, J Vidal-fleury Muscat de Beaumes de venise.

    Happy Thanksgiving.

  • Canaan – Wild and Wonderful Wine Weekend

    Canaan Valley Resort is once again planning their “Wild, Wonderful Wine Weekend” this fall. Join me and other wine and food lovers on November 11-13 for an entertaining and educational gourmet extravaganza. I’ll select wines from around the world that will be paired with a cornucopia of culinary delicacies prepared by Canaan Valley Resort’s executive chef Eric Buchinger.

    It’s always fun to work with culinary professionals in pairing wines with their scrumptious creations, and the folks at our state’s most scenic resort always hit the mark at this signature event.

    The weekend begins Friday, November 11 at 7 p.m. with a “taste-around reception” where wines from the world’s most prestigious regions can be sampled with matching culinary treats from food stations featuring a wonderful selection of foods upon which to graze (see below).

    On Saturday, guests will be treated to a four-course wine-paired luncheon followed later in the afternoon by a tasting of wines selected and led by yours truly. After the tasting, guests will be free to hike, bike, nap (what I plan to do) or just enjoy Mother Nature’s purple mountain majesty!

    View from "Table Rock" in Wild and Wonderful West Virginia

    The evening’s activities begin at 7 p.m. with a six-course grand gourmet dinner with accompanying wines.

    Hopefully, the menus below will get your collective palates watering in anticipation. I haven’t completed selecting all the wines at this writing, but you can be assured that I will do my best to make you happy.

     

     

    Reception
    Seafood station
    Shrimp, Oysters, Scallops and Crab Cakes
    Meats
    Braised Short Ribs, Teriyaki Beef Skewers, Pot Stickers
    Hors D’ oeuvre Display
    Imported cheeses, Italian Meats, mousse, and pâté.
    Dessert Station

     

    Lunch
    Vegetable Terrene
    Fried Green Tomatoes with Plum Shrimp
    Smoked Beef Brisket Ravioli
    Chocolate Espresso Cake

    Dinner
    Crab Bisque
    Pork & Peaches (seared pork belly with a caramelized peach atop)
    Cajun Snapper
    Citrus Chicken
    Stuffed Tenderloin of Beef
    Chocolate Napoleon

    Guests have the option of attending the entire weekend for a package price, or choosing to participate in individual events ala carte. For pricing and additional information or reservations call 800-622-4121 or visit online at www.canaanresort.com.

    Hope to see you there.

  • Local Food and Wine Event

    Friends of Wine and Food

    You might want to jump on this one right away. The FARM2U Collaborative is sponsoring a great food and wine event next Monday. See the invite below.

    You’re invited! Come celebrate the culinary
    heritage of WV as guest Chefs from around
    the state join Berry Hills Country Club Chef Chad Rieve to create
    a unique, wine-paired five-course festival of
    food.

    Monday, October 17
    • Berry Hills Country Club
    • Reception- 6:30 – 7:30
    • Dinner to follow

    Tickets: $100 per person, $175 per couple, or
    $1,000 for a VIP table of eight (8). (Table hosts will
    also receive 4 tickets to the Welcome Reception
    of the Cast Iron Cook-Off, January 21, 2012, at
    The Greenbrier).

    The Food

    Antipasto Salad & Exotic Cheeses
    Harvest Soup
    Herbal Roasted Veal Rib Eye
    Russian Fingerling Potatoes
    Sherry Glaze Chanterelle Mushrooms
    Butternut Squash Duchess

    Our Team of Executive Chefs
    • Tim Urbanic, Café Cimino
    • Anne Hart, Provence Market
    • Chad Rieve, Berry Hills Country Club
    • Dale Hawkins, Fish Hawk Acres
    • Paul Smith, Buzz Food Products

    Tickets available on-line at www.wvfarm2u.org,
    or at The Purple Onion, Capitol Market.
    Seating is limited – advance purchase required.

    Sponsored by the FARM2U Collaborative.
    For more information, contact Jack Cipoletti,
    304-346-3351 or jack@point-forward.com.

    I’m privileged to be a board member of the FARM2U Collaborative which does, among many other good deeds, a great job getting WV farmers together with state restaurants to provide the best foods to those of us who enjoy excellent local cuisine.

    Give them a call today!

  • Witch Creek Wines: spellbinding potion

    I consumed some palate pleasing red wine recently produced by a California winery with a West Virginia connection. Witch Creek Winery is a boutique operation located along the southern California coast in the village of  Carlsbad.

    While the winery produces varietals such as cabernet and syrah, I am particularly impressed with the meritage (blended) wines that Witch Creek concocts. The winery also makes nebbiolo, aglianico, sangiovese and primitivo, a group of Italian grapes that are not widely made anywhere in the US.

    Some friends of mine living in Tucker County poured me a taste of the wine one evening as we sat and sipped, reveling in one of those glorious Canaan Valley sunsets. Good wine with Mother Nature’s best. What an inspiring pairing!

    Witch Creek, which sources its grapes from some of California’s most sought after AVA’s, has also garnered a bevy of medals from prestigious wine competitions such as the one sponsored by the San Francisco Chronicle.

    I was able to taste through most of what Witch Creek has to offer and came away wanting more. Unfortunately, because of the limited production, most of the wines are sold at the winery and to a few select restaurants in California.

    However, because of the mountain state connection, a little of this lovely juice will make it back here to a few select wine shops and restaurants. Look for Witch Creek wines in places such as Snowshoe Mountain Resort and selected other areas in the Potomac Highlands. In Charleston, a limited amount of the wine will be available in the Wine Shop at Capitol Market.

    Dave's PG Red

    Here are some notes on three of the wines I tasted just this past week that you may wish to seek out.

    2008 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon ($40) – Medium-bodied wine with aromas of cola and ripe cherries. On the palate, this wine shows a spicy, peppery tone and finishes with a mocha impression. Grilled red meat would be my choice with this delicious wine.

    2006 Kathy’s Cuvee ($48) – This meritage is a classic Bordeaux blend of cabernet sauvignon merlot, cabernet franc, petit verdot and malbec. Balanced and complex with layers of berry fruit, this wine has a good tannic core and should benefit from three to five years more of bottle age. I would love to pair this with Veal Marsala smothered in Shitake mushrooms.  I recommend using Lombardo Marsala for the absolute best result.

    2008 Dave’s PG Red ($48) – Another meritage comprised of cabernet, merlot and sangiovese, Dave’s PG(Pretty Good) Red is chock full of bright cherry and cola flavors with richness and good depth along with excellent balancing acidity. This one begs to be matched to grilled beef short ribs basted with a mahogany barbecue sauce. By the way, Dave’s Red is better than “Pretty Good!”

    For those of you who wish to try the whole Witch Creek line,  you may shop the winery online at www.witchcreekwinery.com and order directly from them.

  • Just what the doctor ordered

    Fall is just about here! For me that means harvest is upon us – both in the world’s great wine regions – and right here in West–by-Golly too. While we’re not picking grapes in the Kanawha Valley, our local farmer’s market (Capitol Market) is plum full of late season veggies that I have been eating and/or feverishly preserving for winter time consumption.

    Also this time of year, my thoughts turn to all manner of grilled meat dishes along with hearty red wines that just seem to go so well in cooler weather. But just as I began to plan a feast for this weekend built around these scrumptious victuals, I was reminded (by guess who) of my impending annual physical.

    My family doctor’s prescription for my well being includes a heavy dose of reality and a lecture on the merits of lifestyle moderation. So before I visit with him, I’ve decided to prepare a meal that includes a plethora of farm fresh vegetables, some heart-healthy red wine and roasted meat that is chock full of protein. Just what the doctor (Feelgood) ordered.

    (Note to self: this menu may not comport with the wishes of my family physician).

    While I’m a man of simple tastes, I am sometimes required to consume complex dishes with esoteric wines and then render intelligent opinions on the experience. For instance, it is difficult to explain in plain English why shank of armadillo, braised with bok choy in a Tabasco sauce, is such a heavenly match to vermentino grown on the south-facing slope of Mount Supramonte in Sardinia. This job can be challenging!

    Wine match challenging

    So when I cook for friends and family, the food is usually straightforward, down-home meat and starch type meals with fairly inexpensive, no-nonsense wines that taste good and help de-clog the arteries (see, I’m really trying to be healthy).

    In fact, I dearly love rack of lamb, grilled and served with a great big, full-throttle Zinfandel. I have used New Zealand rack purchased at Sam’s Club and these babies are excellent. But recently, I was able to get US raised, anti-biotic-free rack of lamb from my good friends at Sandy Creek Farms near Ravenswood.

    I have mentioned Sandy Creek many times in the past. They raise beef, pork and lamb on organic food-stocks with no antibiotics or other additives, and then butcher and flash freeze the cuts of meat which they then deliver in and around the Charleston area. If you’re interested in having them deliver to you call 1- 800-487-2569.

    And while I love their beef and especially their pork chops, the rack is simply succulent. Here’s my recipe for marinated and grilled rack of lamb, along with a few wine suggestions ,to go with this delicious meal that will feed four adults.

    The Marinade

    2 (six to 8 rib) racks of lamb
    3 ounces of extra virgin olive oil
    2 tablespoons of Dijon mustard
    2 cloves of garlic finely chopped
    2 ounces of freshly squeezed lemon juice
    1 teaspoon each of kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
    1 tablespoon of fresh rosemary chopped

    Much easier wine match

    Preparation

    Combine and then wisp all the ingredients into a marinade
    Place the racks in a gallon plastic baggie or dish and cover for up to four hours
    Light a charcoal or gas grill and roast the racks covered using indirect heat
    Grill for about 20 minutes (for medium rare) and allow to stand for 15 minutes
    Slice the racks into single or double ribs and serve
    Serve with a side dish of ratatouille, vegetable couscous or pasta in a pesto sauce.

    For the perfect wine accompaniments, I suggest full-bodied reds such as zinfandel or grenache. Try Ridge, Falcor, Edmeades or Easton zinfandel or Las Rocas, Borsao Tres Picos or Evodia grenache (garnacha). These wines are all priced under $20 a bottle.