Vines & Vittles

with John Brown

  • Canaan – Wild and Wonderful Wine Weekend

    Canaan Valley Resort is once again planning their “Wild, Wonderful Wine Weekend” this fall. Join me and other wine and food lovers on November 11-13 for an entertaining and educational gourmet extravaganza. I’ll select wines from around the world that will be paired with a cornucopia of culinary delicacies prepared by Canaan Valley Resort’s executive chef Eric Buchinger.

    It’s always fun to work with culinary professionals in pairing wines with their scrumptious creations, and the folks at our state’s most scenic resort always hit the mark at this signature event.

    The weekend begins Friday, November 11 at 7 p.m. with a “taste-around reception” where wines from the world’s most prestigious regions can be sampled with matching culinary treats from food stations featuring a wonderful selection of foods upon which to graze (see below).

    On Saturday, guests will be treated to a four-course wine-paired luncheon followed later in the afternoon by a tasting of wines selected and led by yours truly. After the tasting, guests will be free to hike, bike, nap (what I plan to do) or just enjoy Mother Nature’s purple mountain majesty!

    View from "Table Rock" in Wild and Wonderful West Virginia

    The evening’s activities begin at 7 p.m. with a six-course grand gourmet dinner with accompanying wines.

    Hopefully, the menus below will get your collective palates watering in anticipation. I haven’t completed selecting all the wines at this writing, but you can be assured that I will do my best to make you happy.

     

     

    Reception
    Seafood station
    Shrimp, Oysters, Scallops and Crab Cakes
    Meats
    Braised Short Ribs, Teriyaki Beef Skewers, Pot Stickers
    Hors D’ oeuvre Display
    Imported cheeses, Italian Meats, mousse, and pâté.
    Dessert Station

     

    Lunch
    Vegetable Terrene
    Fried Green Tomatoes with Plum Shrimp
    Smoked Beef Brisket Ravioli
    Chocolate Espresso Cake

    Dinner
    Crab Bisque
    Pork & Peaches (seared pork belly with a caramelized peach atop)
    Cajun Snapper
    Citrus Chicken
    Stuffed Tenderloin of Beef
    Chocolate Napoleon

    Guests have the option of attending the entire weekend for a package price, or choosing to participate in individual events ala carte. For pricing and additional information or reservations call 800-622-4121 or visit online at www.canaanresort.com.

    Hope to see you there.

  • Local Food and Wine Event

    Friends of Wine and Food

    You might want to jump on this one right away. The FARM2U Collaborative is sponsoring a great food and wine event next Monday. See the invite below.

    You’re invited! Come celebrate the culinary
    heritage of WV as guest Chefs from around
    the state join Berry Hills Country Club Chef Chad Rieve to create
    a unique, wine-paired five-course festival of
    food.

    Monday, October 17
    • Berry Hills Country Club
    • Reception- 6:30 – 7:30
    • Dinner to follow

    Tickets: $100 per person, $175 per couple, or
    $1,000 for a VIP table of eight (8). (Table hosts will
    also receive 4 tickets to the Welcome Reception
    of the Cast Iron Cook-Off, January 21, 2012, at
    The Greenbrier).

    The Food

    Antipasto Salad & Exotic Cheeses
    Harvest Soup
    Herbal Roasted Veal Rib Eye
    Russian Fingerling Potatoes
    Sherry Glaze Chanterelle Mushrooms
    Butternut Squash Duchess

    Our Team of Executive Chefs
    • Tim Urbanic, Café Cimino
    • Anne Hart, Provence Market
    • Chad Rieve, Berry Hills Country Club
    • Dale Hawkins, Fish Hawk Acres
    • Paul Smith, Buzz Food Products

    Tickets available on-line at www.wvfarm2u.org,
    or at The Purple Onion, Capitol Market.
    Seating is limited – advance purchase required.

    Sponsored by the FARM2U Collaborative.
    For more information, contact Jack Cipoletti,
    304-346-3351 or jack@point-forward.com.

    I’m privileged to be a board member of the FARM2U Collaborative which does, among many other good deeds, a great job getting WV farmers together with state restaurants to provide the best foods to those of us who enjoy excellent local cuisine.

    Give them a call today!

  • Witch Creek Wines: spellbinding potion

    I consumed some palate pleasing red wine recently produced by a California winery with a West Virginia connection. Witch Creek Winery is a boutique operation located along the southern California coast in the village of  Carlsbad.

    While the winery produces varietals such as cabernet and syrah, I am particularly impressed with the meritage (blended) wines that Witch Creek concocts. The winery also makes nebbiolo, aglianico, sangiovese and primitivo, a group of Italian grapes that are not widely made anywhere in the US.

    Some friends of mine living in Tucker County poured me a taste of the wine one evening as we sat and sipped, reveling in one of those glorious Canaan Valley sunsets. Good wine with Mother Nature’s best. What an inspiring pairing!

    Witch Creek, which sources its grapes from some of California’s most sought after AVA’s, has also garnered a bevy of medals from prestigious wine competitions such as the one sponsored by the San Francisco Chronicle.

    I was able to taste through most of what Witch Creek has to offer and came away wanting more. Unfortunately, because of the limited production, most of the wines are sold at the winery and to a few select restaurants in California.

    However, because of the mountain state connection, a little of this lovely juice will make it back here to a few select wine shops and restaurants. Look for Witch Creek wines in places such as Snowshoe Mountain Resort and selected other areas in the Potomac Highlands. In Charleston, a limited amount of the wine will be available in the Wine Shop at Capitol Market.

    Dave's PG Red

    Here are some notes on three of the wines I tasted just this past week that you may wish to seek out.

    2008 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon ($40) – Medium-bodied wine with aromas of cola and ripe cherries. On the palate, this wine shows a spicy, peppery tone and finishes with a mocha impression. Grilled red meat would be my choice with this delicious wine.

    2006 Kathy’s Cuvee ($48) – This meritage is a classic Bordeaux blend of cabernet sauvignon merlot, cabernet franc, petit verdot and malbec. Balanced and complex with layers of berry fruit, this wine has a good tannic core and should benefit from three to five years more of bottle age. I would love to pair this with Veal Marsala smothered in Shitake mushrooms.  I recommend using Lombardo Marsala for the absolute best result.

    2008 Dave’s PG Red ($48) – Another meritage comprised of cabernet, merlot and sangiovese, Dave’s PG(Pretty Good) Red is chock full of bright cherry and cola flavors with richness and good depth along with excellent balancing acidity. This one begs to be matched to grilled beef short ribs basted with a mahogany barbecue sauce. By the way, Dave’s Red is better than “Pretty Good!”

    For those of you who wish to try the whole Witch Creek line,  you may shop the winery online at www.witchcreekwinery.com and order directly from them.

  • Just what the doctor ordered

    Fall is just about here! For me that means harvest is upon us – both in the world’s great wine regions – and right here in West–by-Golly too. While we’re not picking grapes in the Kanawha Valley, our local farmer’s market (Capitol Market) is plum full of late season veggies that I have been eating and/or feverishly preserving for winter time consumption.

    Also this time of year, my thoughts turn to all manner of grilled meat dishes along with hearty red wines that just seem to go so well in cooler weather. But just as I began to plan a feast for this weekend built around these scrumptious victuals, I was reminded (by guess who) of my impending annual physical.

    My family doctor’s prescription for my well being includes a heavy dose of reality and a lecture on the merits of lifestyle moderation. So before I visit with him, I’ve decided to prepare a meal that includes a plethora of farm fresh vegetables, some heart-healthy red wine and roasted meat that is chock full of protein. Just what the doctor (Feelgood) ordered.

    (Note to self: this menu may not comport with the wishes of my family physician).

    While I’m a man of simple tastes, I am sometimes required to consume complex dishes with esoteric wines and then render intelligent opinions on the experience. For instance, it is difficult to explain in plain English why shank of armadillo, braised with bok choy in a Tabasco sauce, is such a heavenly match to vermentino grown on the south-facing slope of Mount Supramonte in Sardinia. This job can be challenging!

    Wine match challenging

    So when I cook for friends and family, the food is usually straightforward, down-home meat and starch type meals with fairly inexpensive, no-nonsense wines that taste good and help de-clog the arteries (see, I’m really trying to be healthy).

    In fact, I dearly love rack of lamb, grilled and served with a great big, full-throttle Zinfandel. I have used New Zealand rack purchased at Sam’s Club and these babies are excellent. But recently, I was able to get US raised, anti-biotic-free rack of lamb from my good friends at Sandy Creek Farms near Ravenswood.

    I have mentioned Sandy Creek many times in the past. They raise beef, pork and lamb on organic food-stocks with no antibiotics or other additives, and then butcher and flash freeze the cuts of meat which they then deliver in and around the Charleston area. If you’re interested in having them deliver to you call 1- 800-487-2569.

    And while I love their beef and especially their pork chops, the rack is simply succulent. Here’s my recipe for marinated and grilled rack of lamb, along with a few wine suggestions ,to go with this delicious meal that will feed four adults.

    The Marinade

    2 (six to 8 rib) racks of lamb
    3 ounces of extra virgin olive oil
    2 tablespoons of Dijon mustard
    2 cloves of garlic finely chopped
    2 ounces of freshly squeezed lemon juice
    1 teaspoon each of kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
    1 tablespoon of fresh rosemary chopped

    Much easier wine match

    Preparation

    Combine and then wisp all the ingredients into a marinade
    Place the racks in a gallon plastic baggie or dish and cover for up to four hours
    Light a charcoal or gas grill and roast the racks covered using indirect heat
    Grill for about 20 minutes (for medium rare) and allow to stand for 15 minutes
    Slice the racks into single or double ribs and serve
    Serve with a side dish of ratatouille, vegetable couscous or pasta in a pesto sauce.

    For the perfect wine accompaniments, I suggest full-bodied reds such as zinfandel or grenache. Try Ridge, Falcor, Edmeades or Easton zinfandel or Las Rocas, Borsao Tres Picos or Evodia grenache (garnacha). These wines are all priced under $20 a bottle.

  • End of summer goodies

    Today, I want to share a few recommendations from some red wines I’ve sipped recently and which I think you will enjoy too. They come from places as geographically diverse as California, Germany and Italy, but that’s one of the great aspects of wine appreciation: if you can’t find what you’re looking for, there’s always someplace else to look.

    I have been a long time fan of Sebastiani Winery located in the town and county of Sonoma. In fact, Sebastiani was the first  winery I ever visited – way back before Al Gore invented the Internet. Over the years and through many Sebastiani family leadership changes two things have remained consistent: quality and value.

    So I was concerned when I read that the family had sold the winery a few years back to the Foley Wine Group. My concerns, though, were unfounded as evidenced by the continuity of quality in the wines produced to this day. Recently, I tasted a couple of wines that reinforced this view.

    California

    Merlot has gotten a bad rap ever since the movie Sideways. As the price of merlot dropped, I happily benefited and stocked up on as much of the stuff as I could afford. Appreciation for Merlot (unfortunately for me) is ramping back up and the following effort from Sebastiani clearly demonstrates why.

    2007 Sebastiani Sonoma County Merlot ($19) – This is a very focused wine with spicy plum and earthy flavors balanced by tannin and a nice touch of acid. Try it with grilled lamb chops basted with garlic, lemon and olive oil.

    2009 Sebastiani Pinot Noir ($18) Wonderful balance in this elegant, value-priced pinot noir. Ripe cherries, some vanilla and bright acid characterize this wine from the cool Sonoma Coast. Grill a filet of salmon that you’ve dusted with cumin, brown sugar and a little chili powder, and then wash it down with this supple sipper.

    It is not hard to say good things about Falcor Winery. This Napa Valley operation owned by two Charleston lawyers has produced exceptional wine for more than 15 years.

    Jim Peterson, one of Falcor's owners

    Their stable of products, which include a ripe and rich chardonnay and deep and full bodied reds such as zinfandel, pinot noir, cabernet sauvignon, sangiovese and syrah, are sourced from some of the best vineyards in Napa and other highly sought after California appellations.

    I am particularly fond of their Bordeaux-like blend called Bijou.Recently, another blended wine from Falcor has caught my eye…er palate.

    2006 Falcor Bilancia ($36) A blend of 57% Zinfandel, 33% Petit Sirah, 7% Charbono, 2% Carignan, and 1% Valdiguie, Bilancia is a textbook example of why vintners choose to blend. Round and rich flavors of dark fruits, mocha and spice are balanced by bright fruit and good acidity. With fall coming on, I would pair this wine with braised short ribs rubbed with garlic and black pepper and cooked in a bath of tomato sauce and red wine.

    Italy
    2008 Aia Vecchia Lagone ($19) What a find! This beauty from Bolgheri near the coast in Tuscany is Italy’s version of Bordeaux with a blend of merlot, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, and sangiovese. Rich and velvety with ripe black cherry and cola flavors, the Lagone can be drunk now and will continue to benefit from aging for several years to come. I enjoyed this baby with eggplant stacked and layered on the grill with garden tomatoes, fresh mozzarella and basil.

    Germany
    2010 Noble House Sweet Red ($10) Some of us take wine seriously…too seriously. Noble House Sweet Red, made from dorfelder (a funny name, don’t you think?), will put a smile on your face! And it’s really not very sweet, but it is full of great cherry and red fruit flavors. It’s also a surprisingly good accompaniment to food. Serve it slightly chilled and enjoy it as an aperitif on the porch or at the picnic table with a burger or some pulled pork barbecue.

  • Wine and Food at The Greenbrier

    If you are a wine and food fanatic (and you wouldn’t be reading these words otherwise), you’ve got to love what Jim Justice has done in breathing new life into the Greenbrier Resort. Let’s face it, the grand old lady was slipping before he stepped up and rescued this venerable and historic resort.

    By renovating the rooms and public places, constructing a very tasteful casino and developing a world-class golf tournament, Justice is working tirelessly to upgrade the resort with the goal of achieving five-star status.

    With all due respect to the above-mentioned achievements, I am particularly impressed with the efforts to elevate the wine program and cuisine at the Greenbrier. In addition to the elegant Main Dining, Draper’s and Sam Snead’s at the Golf Club, the resort has added In-Fusion (a pan-Asian restaurant), The Forum (Italian) and Prime 44 West Steakhouse named after basketball great and state native Jerry West.

    I’ve had the pleasure of dining at all of the establishments mentioned and I can tell you that particular attention is being paid to making sure that the wine lists are specifically tailored to the menus of the various restaurants. Why should that come as a surprise, you may ask?

    Well, the range of complex dishes prepared at the various dining venues is stunning, and it would be so much more manageable to keep just one  well-rounded list and use it for each different restaurant.

    But not at the Greenbrier. Through coordination and consultation among food and beverage president Jeremy Critchfield, executive Chef Richard Rosendale and director of wine Heath Porter, the resort is able to tailor each restaurant’s menu with wines that match and enhance the culinary focus. And, since the menus are regularly evolving, the wines are constantly changing.

    So if you have not visited the resort recently, you should treat yourself and that special other person in your life to a little R&R at the Greenbrier. In fact, the resort is offering a few wine-oriented events this fall that should tickle your palate.

    Trefethen Vineyards

    Janet Trefethen, of the Napa Valley winery of the same name, will be at the Greenbrier on September 9 & 10. Trefethen Vineyards has been winning international acclaim since the 1970’s and features some of the most elegant cabernet sauvignon made in Napa. In fact, the winery provides the cabernet for Prime 44, the Jerry West signature label.

    Jerry West and "Prime 44"

    Ms. Trefethen is the matriarch of this family winery and will lead guests in a tasting on Friday, Sept. 9th from 5 to 6 p.m. ($50 per person). On Saturday at 6:30 p.m., Ms. Trefethen will join Jerry West and other guests in a special wine dinner at Prime 44 ($250 per person).

    Talley Vineyards

    Brian Talley of Talley Vineyards will be at the resort on Oct. 6th and 7th for a tasting and grand wine dinner. Talley Vineyards is located in the Arroyo Grande Valley
    just south of San Luis Obispo in the heart of California’s Central Coast wine region. The winery focuses on chardonnay and pinot noir.

    On Friday, Oct. 7, at 4:30 p.m., Brian Talley will lead a tasting featuring 6 wines including many single vineyard wines and older vintages ($40 per person). On Saturday at 6:30 p.m., join Talley and other guests for a special five-course dinner with six matching wines ($150 per person).

    Qupe Vineyards

    Bob Lindquist, winemaker of Qupe Vineyards in the Santa Maria Valley (just north of Santa Barbara) will showcase his wines on Friday, October 28 at 5 p.m.($50). Lindquist and Qupe focus on Rhone Valley varietals such as marsanne, viognier, grenache and syrah. Qupe is considered among the finest syrah producers in the US.

    For further information on these tastings and other Greenbrier events, you may call 800-453-4858.